Here and there around the world one can find small places that for one reason or another have been isolated and developed their own cooking traditions: i.e., a "micro-cuisine." One of these places is Goa, for five hundred years a tiny Portuguese colony on the coast of India, now absorbed into India proper. Goa created, and still maintains, a distinctive local cuisine that's a combination of Portuguese, Indian and local food habits. Here's one of their recipes that we've found good, fast and tasty:

Chicken Xacuti

2 1/2 lbs chicken parts
1 cup grated coconut
1 tbsp fresh, diced coconut
1 1/2 tbsp coriander
1 tsp cumin
1 tbsp poppy seeds
1 tsp turmeric
8 dried red chilis (or less, depending on how hot you want the dish to be)
1 tsp grated nutmeg
6 stars aniseed
2 tsp fennel seeds
1/3 cup oil
2 large onions, chopped fine
6 green chilis, chopped fine (again or less, depending on desired heat)
2 tbsp tamarind pulp
2 cups water

In a small frying pan, without oil or fat, on medium heat brown the grated coconut and all the spices other than the nutmeg, green chilis and diced coconut for 3 to 5 minutes. You'll get a strong fragrance when the spices are done.

Remove the spices from the heat and grind the mixture in a blender until it is a paste (the tamarind pulp should add some moisture, if not enough, add a small amount of water.)

Heat oil in the frying pan on medium heat and saute all the ground spices along with the green chilis and chopped onion.

Add the chicken pieces along with the diced coconut, nutmeg and salt to taste.

After the chicken has browned, reduce heat and add the water gradually, stirring all the time. After 15 to 20 minutes, increase the heat and continue cooking until the gravy has thickened and the oil rises to the top.

Serve over rice or chopped, steamed potatoes.

From The Best of Goan Cooking, by Gilda Mendonsa.